Those of us who worship at the Church of Ween (Hail to the great god Boognish!) know that skinny blond twerp Beck stole his whole shtick from New Jersey musical geniuses Dean and Gene. Always ahead of their time, the brothers Ween have responded by abandoning their traditional lo-fi four-track recording methods and giving us their lushest album yet, Chocolate and Cheese. Not that Ween's fourth effort is polished; that adjective could never describe an album that veers wildly from acoustic Mexican folk songs, to pure '70s disco, to the appropriately named single, "I Can't Put My Finger On It." But Chocolate and Cheese may come even closer than "Push Th' Little Daisies" to fulfilling Dean's goal of establishing Ween as the next Counting Crows. --Jim DeRogatis